Bolting for Utah

Welcome Back, 

What a refreshing soak in Shepherds Hot Springs, near Mammoth Lake California. After that beautiful sunrise, we take our time packing up, we let our bathing suits dry, make a hot breakfast and sit in the sun reading our current book; John Does at the End, by David Wong. We are enthralled with the adventure and madness of the story, quirky and off-kilter, we just laugh at all of the goings on. The plan is to head over to Benton Hot Springs Campground, where, you get your own Hot Spring tub with each site. Yes, that is right, your own private Hot Spring, check in is at 3pm and check out is 11am. Doing that math, you can soak and soak and soak until you cannot get anymore pruny. I am super excited about it, and Kyle is very happy that the Hot Spring is private.

Shepherd Hot Springs, morning soak lighting up the landscape.

Benton Hot Springs is only a 45 minute drive from Shepherd Hot Springs, so we have lots of sunshine time to kill. Plus, bonus we have cell service. I haven’t touched on the access to/or lack there of, but with all travel there are dead spots. We are venturing more into those dead zones and have up to this point been pleasantly surprised at how much service we have access to. I check email, talk to my parents, post on Instagram, catch-up on texts, the usual phone stuff. We are packed up, and heading on our way to the next Hot Springs, joy in our hearts and as we roll back across the graded gravel road, we think, man, this doesn’t look the same, I think that spur right there was our turn. We stop, turn around and take the right onto the spur road, just a little down this track, we are confronted with a Dodge Ram pick-up in the middle of the road, looking to hook-up his 5th Wheel RV hitch. (In Val speak, that is the one in the bed of the truck, I call it the horsey hitch, as most Horse Trailers I know are secured by the hitch in the center of the truck bed, not the ball hitch off the back bumper.)

We are like, whoops, this isn’t right either, guess we really are supposed to be on the first road. As we turnaround, my backpack falls out of it’s secured location and we stop to put it back in place, silly backpack, you ride on the top of the drawer system, not behind the passenger seat. While we are getting re-situated the Dodge driver saunters up to Kyle and asks “can you give me a push?”

Kyle: I can see if I can help, but I may end up messing up your bumper.

Dodge Dude: I don’t care about my bumper, I cannot get my truck to hitch the trailer.

Kyle: Okay, we will see what we can do.

We swing back around, let me set the scene.

Dirt road, Dodge 2 wheel drive pick-up blocking the whole road, large boulders up the right embankment (the exact place we would need to be to position ourselves to “push” the truck anywhere). As fate would have it, there were large enough spaces between two sets of boulders for us to 1. Get up the embankment and 2. To push the truck

As Kyle is swinging the Jeep around, so he can back us up the embankment, a Rav4 arrives, parks right in-between us and the trailer, we are trying to line up with to thread ourselves between the boulders, out of the drivers seat bobs a chick who doesn’t even take a glance in our direction, we start backing up, she just walks right behind us, not thinking a thing about it, towards the stuck truck. Kyle slams on the breaks, not to hit her, the Dodge Dude starts to tell the chick (whom I guess is his girlfriend) that we are going to help him get hooked up. Oh, she looks up and then says Okay, again, walks behind us, then goes into the RV and closes the door. While that is happening, 3 other cars arrive, since we are now blocking the road, trying to back-up the embankment, they all park next to the girlfriend, like a parking lot and get out of their cars. Kyle and I are now positioned to start to descend the embankment and try to make gentle contact with Dodge Dudes bumper, the carloads of people, walk between us and the truck, looking around talking to each other, but not saying a word to us or Dodge Dude. Once the gaggle of people have cleared, we are set to kiss his front bumper, but because of our higher angle of approach, we are riding a bit above the actual bumper. Dodge Dude gives the thumbs-up, Kyle in gear, Rorie begins to push. Dodge’s hood, does a little tweak, but all is moving, we hear a loud click, we stop. Thinking, we have secured the hitch, nope. Signal from Dodge Dude, give it one more heave ho. Okay. Kyle sets Rorie back in gear and gives her the gas. Crunch, pop. I think we killed something and Dodge Due is all smiles, giving the thumbs up and yells we are good. Whew. Now the dismount, because we are not on his bumper, Kyle places Rorie in reverse and gently eases backwards, with a slide and a clink, we are released. Dodge Dude jumps out and is all grins, thanks us so much for our help. 

Me: did we hurt your bumper, that didn’t sound good.

Dodge Dude: I don’t care, it could be hanging on the ground and I would be grateful, there was no way I was ever going to get that hitched without you.

Kyle: Okay, glad we could help.

Dodge Dude: You guys are awesome, thanks again.

Tires headed back to the road and we are off, thinking how cool is that, we got to help someone and our Rorie girl did great.

All the way to Benton Hot Springs we chat about how cool that was and wondered how long he would have been there is no one else offered to help.

After checking in, we find our camp spot. We lucked out and got a group spot, so our Hot Spring Tub is huge, like party tub – eww la la.

Sunset at our campsite in Benton Hot Springs, CA.

We make dinner and wait for the sun to go down before we sink into the tub. Watch the sunset and the stars emerge as we float and chat while dusk turns to night. Tomorrow we are getting up again and soaking before we have to leave, because, if you have it, what else should you do but soak.

Since our plans have changed a little, basically not the plans but the timing of the plans, we are heading our way to Tahoe, where we secured a Hotel for several days. Which we are going to fix our water pump (still not working), do laundry and other housekeeping items. Plus, we will explore Tahoe a little. We drive in, hit the Carson City Walmart, then make our way to Tahoe. I don’t remember Tahoe, but my parents say (Hi Mom, Hi Dad) that we had been there before. As Kyle and I drive in, we climb up hill to wrap down around the mountain into Tahoe, as we turn, there is still snow in the shady areas, along the roadsides and covering the mountain tops. We are early for Tahoe too. But, we have a warm place to sleep, out of the wind and will be able to get many items taken care of. Here are some shots of Lake Tahoe from our room. We have one day to explore and drive around the lake. We are off, we want to see Vikingsholm and the surrounding park, stop at the parking area, closed: opens Early April. We snap a few photos, here we are.

Back on the scenic drive, we circle into southern Lake Tahoe, a beach: closed. State park with great views: open but $20 for day pass (which we are not going to be there all day). We continue on and getting hungry. We find this gem of a pizza place called Blue Dog Gourmet Pizza and boy are we happy. They have Gluten Free crusts and Vegan Cheese, plus all kinds of choices for toppings. We get there right when it opens and are ready for pizza. Yay!

After lunch we rejoin the lake loop road and head back north towards the hotel and on the way we are going to drive through the Lake Tahoe tunnel – aka. Cave Rock Tunnel. I love tunnels and this shouldn’t be such a thrill, but it is. Here are some photos of the tunnel. Wha Hoo.

Since we drove north, we didn’t drive through the “rock” side, so if you drive south, you get the actual “rock” tunnel.

After the tunnel we make it back to our Hotel, where there is a sandy beach with epic lake views, so we park, cross the street and go for a little walk around where we have stayed for the past 3 days.

We scamper across rocks and wet sand, check out the boat pier and park. Views are amazing, and we are lucky to have caught this place in off season. As we leave to begin our two day drive to Utah we cannot believe the beauty encompassed in the greater 48.

Our path to Sandy Utah, is a direct one, Tahoe is to get more snow tomorrow, we have to be off the mountain and nearing Southern Utah quickly. We drive the 80 east out of Tahoe through Reno, through most of Nevada on the 50 east stopping only for gas. Plans on seeing the Great Basin National Park, foiled as they don’t open for the season until mid-April.

We keep driving, it is open and flat, lots of dust storms, some so bad that we cannot even see the road, but we make it, to our wild camp destination Ely, Nevada. Just outside of town, across the road from a Mine, we find a nice spot in Juniper Pines, with some protection from the wind and not too chilly at night.

Sleepy Rorie and Kyle after crossing two states in a day’s drive. Level and ready to relax.

Here we will rest, tomorrow we will drive into Sandy Utah and visit with family. Talk next week, when we are refreshed and back on the road, starting our Utah adventures.

See you then.

HWY 395 – Speed Round

Hello There,

Hope you had a restful evening, as we sure did, tucked back against the Alabama Hills, in Inyo County, California. Woke up to views like this, wind in my hair and sunshine on our face. To think less than 3 months ago, we didn’t even know a place like this existed. 

Moon setting while we are waking up, such a wonder it all is.

After a quick breakfast (protein bars and apple, who says Jeep Life isn’t luxurious), we are headed back into Lone Pine to map out our next week or so at the Visitors Center. If you are not aware, as we weren’t prior to plotting our current adventure, I did all of the planning, research and mapping for all of our trips (off-road Kyle picked the trail and I handled the pavement portions) you know, team work. But (and that is a very large but here) with a venture the scope of what we are traversing, there is no possible way I could have done my usual insane amount of research and planning. I confess, I like to plan, I like to know where I am sleeping, I like a schedule, I like to know where the gas is, where the food we can eat is, where the exits are incase of emergency (they are here, here, here and here – direct quote from Aladdin’s Genie). With that said, my confession is, I am in a huge personal learning curve to let go and let it happen (You know the song, Let it Go from Frozen, my new mantra, which is hilarious, because in my mind I am so flexible, reality has a way of showing you your true self). Okay – back to it, blah blah blah – self growth update complete.

Now, we had a list (cough, correction – I had a list), of all the places and things we were going to do along California’s Scenic Highway 395. There are hikes, and waterfalls, lakes, hot springs, mining towns, geothermal sites, more hikes, gondola rides to the top of snowcapped peaks all while skirting the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Sounds epic right? Right.

Those were the “plans”, reality set in about 45 seconding into speaking with the Ranger manning the Lone Pine Visitor Centers desk.

Hikes, yup you can do that, trail opens in June.

Mining Town, yup, you can do that, road opens in mid-April.

Geothermal Sites, sure thing, those are great, wouldn’t want to miss them, closed now, but come on back near the end of April, closer to May and you will have more things to see than you have time to see them.

Whaaaaaat? But, I looked this all up, this is the actual part of the trip that I researched, like I knew what we were doing and where we were going and it is all – closed.

No, no, don’t panic said Ranger Guy, You can drive the June Lake Loop, that road opened two days ago, you can visit Mono Lake and see the Tufa’s, and Hot Springs, you can visit those, the roads are mostly open, so you should be okay.

I venture the question, I researched all of this and the internet said these are all usually open in early March, did I plan our trip all wrong? (See the part of me needing to grow here was fighting our new reality- just saying). 

Ranger Guy, kind smile on his face that reached all the way to his grey/blue eyes, said, no this year we are having a much colder spring and it just isn’t going to arrive until next month or so.

We leave with very nice maps and an extremely truncated scenic itinerary. Our list of 25 down to 4 (I am not joking – snip snip – chop chop).

With this we return to Alabama Hills, Ranger Guy set us off with a mission to see Cyclops Rock, which takes us a bit farther back within the area and will afford us a more private camp for the night. There we (meaning me) can regroup as HWY 395 was to take us a week (or more) to explore and now we can do the whole thing in a days short drive (25 to 4 cuts out a lot of travel time). 

We head back and are blown away at the rounded rock formations seated beneath the jagged peaks of Mount Whitney in the Sierra Nevada’s. There is a driving tour where you can explore old film sites, I cannot recommend this area enough, I mean, look at these views?

Cyclops Rock, Sierra Nevada’s in the distance, pure beauty.

After checking out Cyclops Rock, we settle in for night two and the wind is a whipping. Seated in the Jeep, we map out the next few days. 

This is going to seem like a whirlwind, but here we go. The scenic drive starts in Bishop, which while cruising through town we discover that being from Phoenix, we have no coats that cut the wind chill AND provide warmth, we have warm coats, and then wind breakers, but we need that magic unicorn layer, called the puffy jacket. Yes, we thought we were fine without a puffy, but we were not. Well I had a puffy, but my puffy didn’t keep the wind out, you were nice and warm, until a gust of pure ice cold wind cut round and poof, it seemed you had no jacket on at all. We stop off at Mammoth Mountaineering Supply & Gear Exchange, which is located in an old bank building. Now, as a reference, people who live in Bishop and the surrounding area and wearing shorts, t-shirts, sandals and sunglasses. We are in jeans, socks, layers of shirts and the equivalent of Arizona winter jackets. 

HWY 395, north towards Bodie, fingers crossed we can see the sites.

Here is Kyle styling in his new puffy. I am going to try to tuff it out with my puffy, this wind cannot last forever.

So, stylin’ in the newly acquired puffy.

Now, that we are properly outfitted, back on the road. First stop Bodie, a Historic Mining Town located in the northern part of HWY 395, we are heading up, then going to drive south seeing the sites. It is a lovely road and the views of both the Sierra Nevadas and the surrounding areas are sites we have never seen. We are chatting about where the turn off’s are for the things we are going to stop at on the way back down. Now, the Ranger said, Bodie was closed, BUT, the internet said Bodie was open, so we are going to see if we can get in, because that place, looks amazing to walk around, and if we can go there, that would be truly wonderful. Signs on the turn-off don’t say closed, we are hopeful, round a bend, gate; locked and closed. Ranger Guy 1 – Internet 0.

The sun is shining and it is lunch time, so we decide to picnic near the gate, there is a large flat area that will work just perfectly. While making sandwiches, a guy with a huge work truck lumbers up to the gate, gets out, unlocks it, then drives through, locks it up and is on his way. Bet next week that place will be open. We eat our lunch and while we are driving out, coming at a good clip up the road, is a Sherif, hauling booty towards the area we just left. Sherif cranes his neck as we drive out and we both go, bet you he was coming to shoo us away. Ha, the worker guy called the Sherif on us. Shame on those lunch eaters, and at a rest area with a bench and everything. Oh how we laughed. Now heading out the way we came, southbound on HWY 395, we stop at the Mono Lake overlook. Here is the view.

Mono Lake, nestled in the valley beneath the snowcapped peaks.

We take the gravel road to the South Tufa Area, where you park and then can walk to see the most amazing things; Tufa’s. What is a Tufa, well we didn’t know either. Tufa’s are a chemical reaction underwater, when calcium-rich freshwater springs seep up into the lake that is rich in carbonates (like baking soda), resulting in calcium carbonate or limestone! Isn’t that cool, they blinded me with science. Like seriously, why don’t kids build that in a fish tank over the paper mache volcano’s. Way cooler. Here they are, the ones visible above the water level are due to the water level decreasing, but have no fear, that Mono Lake is still happily at it, making new Tufa’s all the time. 

Tufa’s, truly a wonder at work.

After Mono Lake, we scoot a little north, take a left and are able to drive the June Lake Loop, which also just opened a few days before. June Lake is a whole recreation area, for all seasons, the entire loop road does close due to snow, etc, but I can only imagine how busy and popular this area is during high season. It has 3 bodies of water, Skiing, horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking trails. A destination all unto itself, we here are not going to do it any true justice for all June Lake has to offer, we are simply able to drive the scenic road and see what we can see. Boy were we in for a treat.

First you travel along and the terrain is similar to high desert, sandy mountainsides with small scrub brush and rolling hills, that as you climb lead to Great Lake Reservoir.You just turn a corner in the road and there to the left, is this beautiful blue reservoir banked against sand and sunshine. There was no overlook to grab a photo, and it snuck up on us, water level seemed low, but the couple who hiked down the closed road to bathe in the sunshine appeared to be having an early summer day in March. The road follows the reservoir up, and as you climb the terrain changes, not even 10 minutes from the bright banks of Great Lake Reservoir, you are among Aspen trees and snow.

Rorie in the Aspen’s of June Lake Loop.

Thats right, you didn’t read that wrong, we didn’t see it wrong either. Snow. I say at the next turn-off lets stop and look around, as timing would have it, that was the Silver Lake parking lot. Why did we stop? Because in the 10 minutes, besides snow, Silver Lake was still frozen, like skate on it, throw a rock and it won’t sink or even dent the ice, frozen. Here it is, we were flabbergasted, to say the least. How is the reservoir low and Silver Lake frozen? California, you are bonkers.

Kyle on the path to Silver Lake, frozen and magical.

After wondering at Silver Lake’s wintery hold out against pending spring, we are back on June Lake Loop, heading towards its namesake. Driving through the Aspen, now turning more into Pine trees, climbing even higher in elevation, we round a corner and there is a Ski Area, June Mountain Ski Area to be specific. 

Me: Is that a Ski Lodge?

Kyle: Looks like it.

Me: Did we know this was here?

Kyle: Nope, but we didn’t really look at that map.

Me: Let me get this straight, we have hot reservoir, frozen lake and now a skiing?

Kyle: Guess so.

Me: California is funny, how do they do all that not even 15 minutes from each other?

But wait, as we are ogling the ski area, it’s lifts and happy patrons, we round the corner and peeking through the tree line is June Lake, with a sandy beach! Yes, that is right. Sandy Beach, people in bathing suits, paddle boarders, swimmers (not many, but people were in that water), floating inter tubes, beach. We scooted through town, which looked quaint and friendly, didn’t see the turn-off to get to June Lake (sorry no picture of that either, I am sure if goggled it will show a much better view than I could have caught). Then, as swiftly as we entered the Loop, we were queuing up to return onto HWY 395.

We drove past Mammoth Mountain Ski Area and Mammoth Lakes, and turned on Benton Crossing, as we had a date with a wild Hot Spring. After being so cold and windy, we were looking for a soak and Ranger Guy, told us of a great local spot called Shepherd Hot Springs. It wasn’t supposed to be as busy as the many others which would give us the best chance of having to share with only a few instead of the masses. 

Driving east, it is a flat grassland, with little vegetation, we turn onto the dirt road, graded and a little bumpy, follow the gps and after climbing a small hill, we descend towards the spring. There are people already there, a tent camper and a couple of Van’s but we find a back in parking spot and are all set. After dinner, we take out our propane fire pit, because it is cold, the low tonight is going to be 20 degrees. 

Amy can Fire Pit in action. Working like a dream to keep us warm.

After heating up a little and enjoying Kyle’s fire pit craftsmanship, yes he built that Ammo Can Fire Pit himself (what a guy I tell ya, I am a spoiled girl), we snuggle into the tent with plans for a sunrise soak.

Morning is breaking, we are all set in our swimsuits, slippers on, towels in hand, we make it to the spring, steam is rising from the small tub, and as the other campers leave, we are given the gift of the hot spring all to ourselves. Watching the sunrise across the field and bask in the wonder of our new lives. Today we begin to travel north east to Tahoe, where we will strategize the next leg of our adventures.

Sun cresting the horizon, while we percolate in Shepherd Hot Springs.

See you all next week.

Welcome…

Hi there, thanks for checking us out.

We are Kyle and Val, first time bloggers and outdoor lovers. Was that too cheesy to start off with? Hmm. Technically I will be your blogging host (Val) Hi (insert hand wave here).

Kyle and I are a huge family of two (I speak fluent sarcasm, just an FYI), that is right, just the two of us, no kids, no animals, just us. We sold our home in Phoenix, Arizona where we both held full time day jobs; Kyle as an electrician and I as an Accounts Payable Manager for a Lumber company. We married in March of 2014, just a little over a year after meeting, which by today’s standards is quick, I guess. But we knew, we knew we were meant to be together. We are best friends, and I don’t mean like old married people friends, I mean snort laughing, inside jokes, hand holding, perm-a-grin, unconditional acceptance and love, best friends. You go, I go type bond. 

Kyle has always been a off-roader, when I met him he had two huge blazers for what he called romping. He downsized to one 1989 Blazer, named Betsy. Also affectionateIy referred to as The Girlfriend. Mostly because she was Kyle’s other love. He loved working on her, fixing her, planning on what he is going to upgrade her too for better off-roading performance. The list is long, but she was a ton of fun to take out and over trails. Betsy was sold, which was sad, but she found a great home with a family that is going to restore her in all her glory. We have a Jeep Wrangler JK Sport, daily driver and trail runner when Betsy was moody. Jeeps just plain ROCK, like how fun are they to drive? She got named Rockie. Uhm, I have a confession, I name things. (blush) Last but by no means least we have a Jeep Wrangler 4 Door JL Sport. Which we have converted into an overloading beastie, she is named Aurora (Sleeping Beauty, you get it right?) Rorie for short, who is our new home on wheels.

Kyle wasn’t much of a camper, he did it, Eagle Scout and all, he’s was mostly more of an out and back trail guy. I am versed in camping (since I was little with my family, actually it seems we always camped), hiking (nothing too intense, just get out into nature, away from the bustle) and travel, oh how I love to see and do new things, and talk Kyle into doing such things (hee hee). Basically, I have no shame in being a tourist in our home state, or any state for that matter. I like to seek out fun offbeat things to do and see. Wrap this all up together in a cuddly blankie and we have created a happy lifestyle, taking the roads less traveled.

Now if you read this far, you might be thinking what is this blog going to do for me, let’s get down to it.

In this little space on the big wild web, I am carving out a place to provide inspiration to live a life off-road. To inspire you to get out, take a trail, plan a vacation, seek out adventure, wherever you are. To have fun, daily. I want to share the strategies, tips and shortcuts I use to get us out there, seeing all of the things, driving the places and experiencing the stuff. I want to share what we find, where we go and what we do when we get there. Ultimately I am going to take you along in the jump seat for our 10 month adventure from Phoenix to Alaska and then back. Yuppers, we are off the urban life and on the move. Go ahead, poke around at what we are up to. Peek into the possibilities. Let the fun begin, Welcome to McCoy Offroad.