Bolting for Utah

Welcome Back, 

What a refreshing soak in Shepherds Hot Springs, near Mammoth Lake California. After that beautiful sunrise, we take our time packing up, we let our bathing suits dry, make a hot breakfast and sit in the sun reading our current book; John Does at the End, by David Wong. We are enthralled with the adventure and madness of the story, quirky and off-kilter, we just laugh at all of the goings on. The plan is to head over to Benton Hot Springs Campground, where, you get your own Hot Spring tub with each site. Yes, that is right, your own private Hot Spring, check in is at 3pm and check out is 11am. Doing that math, you can soak and soak and soak until you cannot get anymore pruny. I am super excited about it, and Kyle is very happy that the Hot Spring is private.

Shepherd Hot Springs, morning soak lighting up the landscape.

Benton Hot Springs is only a 45 minute drive from Shepherd Hot Springs, so we have lots of sunshine time to kill. Plus, bonus we have cell service. I haven’t touched on the access to/or lack there of, but with all travel there are dead spots. We are venturing more into those dead zones and have up to this point been pleasantly surprised at how much service we have access to. I check email, talk to my parents, post on Instagram, catch-up on texts, the usual phone stuff. We are packed up, and heading on our way to the next Hot Springs, joy in our hearts and as we roll back across the graded gravel road, we think, man, this doesn’t look the same, I think that spur right there was our turn. We stop, turn around and take the right onto the spur road, just a little down this track, we are confronted with a Dodge Ram pick-up in the middle of the road, looking to hook-up his 5th Wheel RV hitch. (In Val speak, that is the one in the bed of the truck, I call it the horsey hitch, as most Horse Trailers I know are secured by the hitch in the center of the truck bed, not the ball hitch off the back bumper.)

We are like, whoops, this isn’t right either, guess we really are supposed to be on the first road. As we turnaround, my backpack falls out of it’s secured location and we stop to put it back in place, silly backpack, you ride on the top of the drawer system, not behind the passenger seat. While we are getting re-situated the Dodge driver saunters up to Kyle and asks “can you give me a push?”

Kyle: I can see if I can help, but I may end up messing up your bumper.

Dodge Dude: I don’t care about my bumper, I cannot get my truck to hitch the trailer.

Kyle: Okay, we will see what we can do.

We swing back around, let me set the scene.

Dirt road, Dodge 2 wheel drive pick-up blocking the whole road, large boulders up the right embankment (the exact place we would need to be to position ourselves to “push” the truck anywhere). As fate would have it, there were large enough spaces between two sets of boulders for us to 1. Get up the embankment and 2. To push the truck

As Kyle is swinging the Jeep around, so he can back us up the embankment, a Rav4 arrives, parks right in-between us and the trailer, we are trying to line up with to thread ourselves between the boulders, out of the drivers seat bobs a chick who doesn’t even take a glance in our direction, we start backing up, she just walks right behind us, not thinking a thing about it, towards the stuck truck. Kyle slams on the breaks, not to hit her, the Dodge Dude starts to tell the chick (whom I guess is his girlfriend) that we are going to help him get hooked up. Oh, she looks up and then says Okay, again, walks behind us, then goes into the RV and closes the door. While that is happening, 3 other cars arrive, since we are now blocking the road, trying to back-up the embankment, they all park next to the girlfriend, like a parking lot and get out of their cars. Kyle and I are now positioned to start to descend the embankment and try to make gentle contact with Dodge Dudes bumper, the carloads of people, walk between us and the truck, looking around talking to each other, but not saying a word to us or Dodge Dude. Once the gaggle of people have cleared, we are set to kiss his front bumper, but because of our higher angle of approach, we are riding a bit above the actual bumper. Dodge Dude gives the thumbs-up, Kyle in gear, Rorie begins to push. Dodge’s hood, does a little tweak, but all is moving, we hear a loud click, we stop. Thinking, we have secured the hitch, nope. Signal from Dodge Dude, give it one more heave ho. Okay. Kyle sets Rorie back in gear and gives her the gas. Crunch, pop. I think we killed something and Dodge Due is all smiles, giving the thumbs up and yells we are good. Whew. Now the dismount, because we are not on his bumper, Kyle places Rorie in reverse and gently eases backwards, with a slide and a clink, we are released. Dodge Dude jumps out and is all grins, thanks us so much for our help. 

Me: did we hurt your bumper, that didn’t sound good.

Dodge Dude: I don’t care, it could be hanging on the ground and I would be grateful, there was no way I was ever going to get that hitched without you.

Kyle: Okay, glad we could help.

Dodge Dude: You guys are awesome, thanks again.

Tires headed back to the road and we are off, thinking how cool is that, we got to help someone and our Rorie girl did great.

All the way to Benton Hot Springs we chat about how cool that was and wondered how long he would have been there is no one else offered to help.

After checking in, we find our camp spot. We lucked out and got a group spot, so our Hot Spring Tub is huge, like party tub – eww la la.

Sunset at our campsite in Benton Hot Springs, CA.

We make dinner and wait for the sun to go down before we sink into the tub. Watch the sunset and the stars emerge as we float and chat while dusk turns to night. Tomorrow we are getting up again and soaking before we have to leave, because, if you have it, what else should you do but soak.

Since our plans have changed a little, basically not the plans but the timing of the plans, we are heading our way to Tahoe, where we secured a Hotel for several days. Which we are going to fix our water pump (still not working), do laundry and other housekeeping items. Plus, we will explore Tahoe a little. We drive in, hit the Carson City Walmart, then make our way to Tahoe. I don’t remember Tahoe, but my parents say (Hi Mom, Hi Dad) that we had been there before. As Kyle and I drive in, we climb up hill to wrap down around the mountain into Tahoe, as we turn, there is still snow in the shady areas, along the roadsides and covering the mountain tops. We are early for Tahoe too. But, we have a warm place to sleep, out of the wind and will be able to get many items taken care of. Here are some shots of Lake Tahoe from our room. We have one day to explore and drive around the lake. We are off, we want to see Vikingsholm and the surrounding park, stop at the parking area, closed: opens Early April. We snap a few photos, here we are.

Back on the scenic drive, we circle into southern Lake Tahoe, a beach: closed. State park with great views: open but $20 for day pass (which we are not going to be there all day). We continue on and getting hungry. We find this gem of a pizza place called Blue Dog Gourmet Pizza and boy are we happy. They have Gluten Free crusts and Vegan Cheese, plus all kinds of choices for toppings. We get there right when it opens and are ready for pizza. Yay!

After lunch we rejoin the lake loop road and head back north towards the hotel and on the way we are going to drive through the Lake Tahoe tunnel – aka. Cave Rock Tunnel. I love tunnels and this shouldn’t be such a thrill, but it is. Here are some photos of the tunnel. Wha Hoo.

Since we drove north, we didn’t drive through the “rock” side, so if you drive south, you get the actual “rock” tunnel.

After the tunnel we make it back to our Hotel, where there is a sandy beach with epic lake views, so we park, cross the street and go for a little walk around where we have stayed for the past 3 days.

We scamper across rocks and wet sand, check out the boat pier and park. Views are amazing, and we are lucky to have caught this place in off season. As we leave to begin our two day drive to Utah we cannot believe the beauty encompassed in the greater 48.

Our path to Sandy Utah, is a direct one, Tahoe is to get more snow tomorrow, we have to be off the mountain and nearing Southern Utah quickly. We drive the 80 east out of Tahoe through Reno, through most of Nevada on the 50 east stopping only for gas. Plans on seeing the Great Basin National Park, foiled as they don’t open for the season until mid-April.

We keep driving, it is open and flat, lots of dust storms, some so bad that we cannot even see the road, but we make it, to our wild camp destination Ely, Nevada. Just outside of town, across the road from a Mine, we find a nice spot in Juniper Pines, with some protection from the wind and not too chilly at night.

Sleepy Rorie and Kyle after crossing two states in a day’s drive. Level and ready to relax.

Here we will rest, tomorrow we will drive into Sandy Utah and visit with family. Talk next week, when we are refreshed and back on the road, starting our Utah adventures.

See you then.

Deep in Death Valley

Welcome back – are you all buckled in and ready for a trail day?

Boy we sure are – we are topped off with our water – plenty of fuel and excited for the trails we have read about and cannot wait to see the northern remote part of the park. 

DV Road to Dunes 1
Road towards the remote area of Death Valley National Park.

We are starting off driving past Ubehebe Crater, and instead of taking a left – to visit this massive crater, we are taking the dirt road north titled Big Pine/Death Valley road. This is a graded dirt road that if you so desire will skirt you up into Big Pine, California, off HWY 395. 

There is only one other car on the road as we start our day trip. We skirt high desert and lovely views abound crossing this section of the trail. Stopping at Crankshaft Junction – which is littered with old crankshafts, as this route is remote and vehicles in the past were known for breaking down in this remote area. The Junction pays homage to those who have not faired as well taking the road less travelled north through the unforgiving desert.

At this point, there is an option to meander up into Last Chance Mountain, we are not taking that offer and staying the course, continuing on Big Pine Road, northwest. We pass by a Mines and meet the Eureka Dunes Dry Camp turnoff. Real subtle like, we turn left and are heading south towards Eureka Dunes. This is one of the least visited areas of the park and it is truly a sight to see.  I simply had no idea, the beauty ( I mean sand dunes, they can’t be THAT great can they?). These dunes can, as they tower at more than 680 feet above a dry lake bed, which lies in the remote Eureka Valley at a 3000 foot elevation. The dunes are 1 mile wide and 3 miles long, which doesn’t seem impressive, like I was all (oh they are cute so only a few miles, baby dunes), but they are massive in height and as the wind shifts, it reminds you of scenes in epic movies with white glistening dunes, waves of sand dancing in the breeze. 

Eureka Stand Dunes DV
View of Eureka Sand Dunes, Death Valley, California

Our trail begin’s here? Oh goodness.

It finally sinks in, we really are off the regular map aren’t we? 

Yes, yes we are, and it is exhilarating and honestly a little terrifying (me, not Kyle, he is loving this, like perm-a grin on his face, he is in his element).

We follow the trail around the back of Eureka Dunes (you are not allowed to drive on the dunes, up the dunes or any shenanigans like that; you wouldn’t want to, the pure incline of the dune is such you wouldn’t get far).  We begin the climb up the side of the valley basin, towards Dedeckera Canyon. Good thing Kyle is navigating, because all roads look like a trail to me, I would get us L O S T in 3.2 seconds, I swear.

Wind is blustering and we are just grinning from ear to ear, as we travel along the trail. Out of the dunes and up into the canyon the landscape completely changing. We are soon rounding on our first obstacles – rock waterfalls. Normally the trail is run south to north, but with our new plan, that is not how this train is a rolling – so we are charging up these rock waterfalls (Eeeeeee! This is our first ever real off-road challenge with our our Sleeping Beauty Jeep, please house don’t break- fingers crossed, because we are doing this). 

Now if you don’t off-road or vehicle rock climb, there is a spotter (hi, my name is Mrs. McCoy and I will be your spotter for this portion of trail) and there is a driver (please let me introduce Mr. McCoy, he will be the expert driver for this part of your journey). I step out into the whipping wind and with Kyle’s window down, we begin to line up our plan of ascent. It is a little tight and the rock waterfalls have ledges that our Jeep will have to scurry up, they are big and jagged, Kyle had slipped into 4Low and here we go!!!

Here are the photos, I tried to video it, but being a spotter; saying wheels driver, then passenger – that is instead of left or right to help the driver place their tires in the correct area to ensue proper grip on the trail (I learned from YouTube, felt very professional) I kept moving the recording hand in the same direction I was saying to put the tires – Hilarious, epic documentation fail – but the half video we have, we are proud of anyway.

Dedeckera Entry DV
Dedeckera Canyon, waterfall entry point of view.
Dedeckera Canyon Step 1
Rorie, beginning the climb up rock waterfall.
Dedeckera Canyon Step 2
Triumphant Assent, Rorie the climbing Jeep!

Bump, engine roar, tires engage, more engine roar, squeak, crunch of gravel, pop up of the front part of the Jeep, oh my we are doing this! More jumping, more engine roars and hop hop, jump, roar, we are up! Oh my. Kyle stops, I run up to the drivers door and say how was that because it looked so cool (like Fonz cool – sew-per cool). Eyes sparkling, smirk plastered on his lips, words were, that was awesome – we need more of that in our life. Oh the bug has bit. I climb back into the passenger seat and we are shaking up the trail, weaving through rocks, curving with the terrain and following the slow incline over the mountains. Once we reach the top, we find a small turn out and make lunch, here is our view. Not too shabby for a lunch break, eh?

Mountaintop Lunch DV
Top of the Mountain Cafe, open for Lunch, view seating of your choice. Serving picnic sandwiches since the dawn of time.

From here we will be navigating our way down the mountains, through some additional valleys and come into Saline Valley Warm Springs, where the Park Ranger said, is a good place to camp, BUT warned people like to soak in their birthday suits. Nakie people, people. We get into Saline Warm Springs, and it is windy, gusts and blowing, tents are flapping, palm trees (think traditional cartoon oasis, it is what it looks like) swaying, blue pools beckoning. Quick scope of the area, Kyle has identified 3 naked people all in one pool and there is one pool open, no one is there.

The question is out in the air.

Kyle: Are we stopping?

Me: Is there water?

Kyle: Yes

Me: Park and let’s get in that water!

Kyle: Bathing Suits, right?

Me: Yup, we got to change fast before that open pool loses what little shade it has.

We are parked, towels out, changing in our suits and flops, padding our way to the open pool. It was warm (not too hot, not too cold, I am saying Goldilocks approved).

Warm Springs DV
Saline Valley, Warm Springs, oasis in the desert, clothes optional soaking pool.

Me: Ahhhhhhhh

Kyle: Not too bad

Me: Ahhhhhhhhh

10 minutes later (I have my glasses off, I am blind, the world is fuzzy).

Kyle: Uhm, we are going to have to get out, now.

Me: Why? It is so nice, we just got in.

Kyle: Dust Storm, Haboob style, rolling right at us.

One….Two….Three…. We are slammed with sand, flip flops try to run for cover without us, dripping wet and trying to use the wind to help us wrap our towels around our bodies, we scurry back to our Jeep for cover.

Kyle gets his shirt on, I get my sundress and we fire up the Jeep. Bye Saline Warm Springs, our 10 minutes of bliss was wonderful.

Saline Valley Dust Road DV
Warm Springs Road, slipping away in the wind gusts.

We now take the road out of Warm Springs to junction with the Saline Road, which looked on our map to be a paved road that travels north and south around this portion towards Big Pine. The wind is so strong that we can barely make out the road to follow. Please see picture below. Now imagine, wind howling and gusts rocking you as you drive, who needs carnival rides when Mother Nature decides to throw a wind party?

We make it to the junction, wait, what? Where is the paved road? Nope, it is a non-improved road (meaning dirt, rutted and rough) for the next 36 miles. 

You hear stories of people who have broken down in Death Valley, had to roll into a town or the park with help from others, and I naively thought, not these days, all of our cars have such great gas mileage people make it out just fine. Right?

Well, nope. Driving along the Saline Road, BAM right there smack dab in the middle of it, is a Toyota 4Runner, their A-Arm (the bar that goes from the frame to the wheel hub, if you didn’t know, like me, all I saw was a wheel all popped out funky and an empty SUV) dead. We pull up slowly, to see if anyone in inside, it was empty, so whomever the owner was had secured help. Somehow, because there was no cell service, and no one else anywhere on any-road that we had seen for over 2 hours. Regular maintenance and service on your vehicles, it matters.

The sun is lowering in the sky and we reach pavement, I have never been so happy in my life – emerging from the dust storms, with 50 miles of fuel left in the tank, we will make it to Lone Pine. Whew.

Saline Rd Jct DV
Pavement, glorious pavement. Follow the yellow lines to civilization.

Chevron, we salute you and your chosen location for fueling on the outskirts of Lone Pine. With cell service and fuel, we find a wild camp in the Alabama Hills for the night, trying to find some sort of relief from the wind. Camp is set-up, dinner is made (gourmet PB&J anyone)? Snuggling into our Ursa Minor Tent for a little book reading and much needed rest, we close our eyes to the rustle of our tent walls in the wind. Grateful for emerging, triumphant for the capabilities of our Jeep and exhausted from the long day on all of the roads and completely blissful in the adventures our new life is bringing us.

Alabama Hills Camp 1
Alabama Hills, BLM Wild Camp, hiding from the Wind never looked so good.
Alabama Hills Camp 2
Kyle, setting up our Ursa Minor Tent.
Alabama Hills Camp 3
Peek-a-boo Jeep, who is that sleeping around? Rorie, that’s who.

In the morning we will figure out what we do next, because it seems that nature has a different trip itinerary that what was originally thought.

Talk next week, where we follow California Highway 395, North.